One to watch – Helje Hamre

Helje Hamre (35) is one of these designers.
At the age of 21 he moved to New York to study fashion design at Parsons The New School for Design. At the end of his studies he met the US based designer Narciso Rodriguez and was able to show him his portfolio – Rodriguez was impressed. A couple of days later Mr. Rodriguez called Helje and wondered if he was interested in an apprenticeship.

It was then he realized that he actually might have some potential in becoming a decent designer.

After finishing his apprenticeship, he got a job at DKNY (Donna Karan New York) as an assistant and worked his way up to senior designer. It was during the last couple of years at DKNY that Helje started thinking of designing his own brand.

- DKNY is a big organization and they are very set in the way they do things. I felt that I wanted to do something more and that’s how I started thinking on creating my own collection.

The decision on moving back to Norway after 13 years in New York, came partly because of the recession in the US. But he also knew that there would be challenges in Norway.

- The conditions are not set right for designers in Norway. For example, in New York they have their own streets where we can go sampling and get accessories. It’s also difficult to find qualified seamstress and people with in depth knowledge of the fashion industry – at all levels.

But despite this, he sets about designing his first collection. Helje is probably one of the few rookies in Norway that actually do not sew the clothes himself. He has always been using a seamstress, and this allows him to focus more on being a designer.

Helje had his debut during Oslo Fashion Week 2010 and more than one lifted an eye brow at his collection. His design is very classical, yet edgy – but most of all wearable.

- I like the classic look but with a modern expression, and it’s important for me to create wearable clothes and not just show pieces. I also use a lot of neutral colours in my design. You could say I’m the opposite of Fam Irvoll who uses a lot of colours.

As with any designer, he needs inspiration.

- I often start by listening to mood music and then I start looking at colours. Then I start putting things together. I love using contrasts and work with things that really doesn’t match – and make it work.

So is he a one to watch? Most definitely. During 2011 Helje Hamre will be opening a webshop, expanding his staff and create a menswear collection. So he’s definitely moving in the fast lane. He also has plans on moving back to New York to further pursue his designer career.■