Vintage

In the dictionary, we find the following definition: “the term vintage is used in oenology to talk about exclusive wine and then in the 90’s, it was adopted by the world of fashion when referring to old collection made by famous designers”.

In fact, since 1990, vintage clothing meant literally clothes made by famous designers from 1920 to 1970. At this time museums made retrospective exhibitions of Paul Poiret, Madeleine Vionney, Christian Dior or Pierre Cardin. These exhibitions shed light on the historical importance of these “inventors of clothing”, which played an important role in the liberation of women. When looking at these “fabric artwork”, we realize that the exceptional quality of material and handmade needlework have disappeared from today’s ready-to-wear collections, and become collector’s items. The metal dresses by Paco Rabanne or the first Chanel dresses are auctioned like masterpieces of Picasso and Monet. Vintage is in fact a symbol of excellence and sophistication.

New designers are seduced by this idea, and goes to vintage stores and flea markets in search of fashion items from the past to find patterns, details and materials to inspire new collections and trends. Movie stars like Julia Roberts and Natalie Portman doesn’t hesitate to wear vintage for premiers, awards or other special occasions.

We see entire catwalks with looks from the 40’s (Yohji Yamamoto, Ralph Lauren), 50’s (Jean-Paul Gaultier, Marc Jacobs), 60’s (Prada, Paul Ka) or 70’s (Chloe, John Galliano). Vintage becomes the foundation of design, and fashion looks more and more like vintage. Just look at the blue and white striped sweater used by sailors in the 20’s, worn by designer Gabrielle Chanel in the 30’s, redesigned by Jean Paul Gaultier in the 80’s, and then again became the summer fashion item of 2010. An entire book would not be enough to illustrate all the clothes and accessories that are back in fashion, like Ray Ban Wayfarer of the 80’s or the hippie dress of the 70’s. It’s a constant renewal of the past.

With the emerging of major chains like Zara or H&M in the 90’s, mass production of fashion inspired by vintage, has changed the way young people dressing all around the world. Who has not met a neighbor or colleague with identical H&M jacket or Zara shoes as yourself?

The fashionistas then turn to vintage to find unique pieces to combine with their clothes, in order to find an original and personal look. The vintage has become the way to stand out from the uniform society of modern trends and mass produced clothes.

This is why I draw the following as the true definition of vintage: “unique pieces manufactured more than 15 years ago, that symbolize the greatness of past fashion”.

Take for example a leather handmade bag from the 50’s made of natural materials; the method and the quality of manufacturing have nothing to do with Chinese copies, fake leather and child labor products we find in stores today. Even from an economic point of view, by comparing the price of a vintage cotton dress for 45 euros in any good vintage store with the same kind in polyester made in China at 70 euros at a low cost chain, the choice is easily made.

By the year 2000, vintage flourishes with the revival of the 80’s. Vogue or Elle stylists creates new looks by combining vintage clothing from different designers. This becomes an instant hit among the public. The demand increases and a huge business develops. Wholesalers start buying used clothes from charity organizations like the Red Cross, and resell by the kilo to specialized shops in all fashion capitals of the world.

These “vintage stores” offer different styles, from all periods and in all price ranges. Now with the great success of the vintage industry, big and established department stores jumps on the trend.
In 2005 the famous “Grand Magasin du Printemps” in Paris made a great success with “Tresors Vintage”, presenting the most specialized vintage stores from Tokyo to Los Angeles. Even those who were repulsed by the smell of old clothes could not longer resist this new fashion. Who hasn’t proudly wore a unique leather jacket from the seventies, or carried one of grandma’s old bags or sunglasses? Vintage slips into the wardrobes like sex toys in woman’s bedroom.

At the end of the first decade of our century, we now see how vintage influence other aspects of our life; cars, furniture, electronics, music and TV series (Mad Men, Boardwalk Empire). Vintage have gradually become a true social phenomenon.

Flea markets are multiplying at the same pace new vintage addicts are born. People are seduced by the symbols from the past, from a time less supervised, monitored and consumer driven.
Like any social phenomenon, the international brands waste no time exploiting the trend of vintage and reduce it to consumer product. Brands like Levi’s, Wrangler, Adidas, D&G, or Ralph Lauren are all re-launching their old star collections to really be “in vogue”. And new brands emerge with names like “American Vintage”, “American Retro”, “American Rag” or “Vintage55”.
But their products are not authentic. The consumers are ripped off by this commercialization of vintage.

Now anything marked “vintage” sells. Brands have taken a concept in order to give a guarantee of quality, when in fact it is simply a mass production that encourage massive consumption. Consumers end up being confused and do no longer know the real meaning of vintage; is it design inspired by the past or something from the past? Everyone is wearing a copy of a copy and believes it is vintage. Our style is manipulated by brands and the misuse of the word vintage.

Today, despite this confusion, there are still passionate people who continue to cultivate the idea of quality and originality. As real vintage is getting more and more popular, stocks are getting smaller; it is increasingly difficult to find the unique pieces in right design, color and size. The beautiful vintage is sold in specialized concept stores where they charge the same prices as new fashion brands. It is these “vintage professionals”, highly dedicated in the search of unique clothes from all around the world, that will give you the authentic and original look that makes you stand out from the stereotyped and uniform society of mass “fashion”.

Photo: Ole Martin Halvorsen